How bizarre!Īll said and done, if you persevere it will pay off to use it, the time factor and consistency ( once you have mastered it ) being the main plus points. My solution, strange as it may seem, convert the picture at 600 dpi and engrave at 300 dpi - result - brilliant.
Then on the suggested Epilog settings for wood, I burned too deep leaving a very poor result. Whilst I'm having a bit of a gripe with this program, I found that on some of the softer woods using the suggested settings they were not powerful enough. Yeah right, try etching glass with those settings, it won't even show! Then when you come to working on mirror, no settings or simulations are available, a lot of the so called standard suggested settings don't work as they say. Quite often it suggests that you engrave the glass at 100 power 97 speed. Take for instance working with glass, the settings are pretty straight forward but it has a tendency to flip the image on default settings, which is something I personally hate. It's a good program, it isn't the easiest in the world as it has loads of various settings and in the beginning, there are more failures than successes. Incidently Tracey, I searched everywhere to try and get a copy of this program, it's just not out there and if it's any consolation I paid in pounds what some people have been paying here in dollars. They get some money for a program they don't use and you get a program at a really good price. Okay, there are two people on this page who have not taken to Photograv, why don't you make one of them an offer.